A Guide to Laying a Lawn and Aftercare
We will need 2/3 days notice for orders, possibly less depending on the amount of turf you need, we do try and keep stock in our cooler, but it all depends on the demand.
Measure the area to be turfed then multiply the length by the width, this will give you the total area
Turf must be rolled out within 24 hours in the Autumn/Winter and immediately in Spring/Summer.
A few tools are required to lay a new lawn, wheelbarrow, a rake and a spade, some scaffolding planks plus hose pipe and sprinkler (watering can is not enough).
Start by carrying the turf to the newly prepared site, then set out the borders with a single row of turf, then fill in by laying turf rolls in straight lines butting closely end to end, on subsequent rows stagger the joints in brickwork fashion.
Planks should be placed on newly laid turf for walking along and working from. Lightly firm down the turf to ensure good contact between the soil and the underside of each turf. Never use a roller on freshly laid turf. Always push the turf into point. Never stretch the turf by pulling them. Any remaining cracks can be filled with a light soil and tamped down.
Water turf as soon as it is laid. If laying during summer and dry conditions it will need saturating immediately after laying and maintained wet for several weeks (even during wet spells) until established.
Caring for your New Lawn
New turf should be adequately fertilized and protected from pests for at least six months, so the following monthly notes are only a general guide.
January: Keep off the lawn in very wet or frosty conditions.
February: In milder areas begin the lawn care season by spreading worm casts when they are dry, with a light brush.
March: Rake the lawn to remove leaves, dead grass etc., but not too hard as this can damage the grass. If the grass is puffy due to winter frost (if you make footprints when walking on the lawn) lightly roll. The first cut should only take the top off the grass.
Two cuts may be sufficient this month depending on the weather. If moss is a problem, deal with straight away with a proprietary moss killer. Repair/tidy lawn edges with half moon edging iron.
April: Feed and weed the lawn in warm weather when the grass and weeds are actively growing. Rake out dead moss and reseed any bare patches. Cutting will become more frequent this month but don’t cut lower than 1½ inches. Dig out course grasses and fill holes with sifted soil and course sand (60/40) before turfing or seeding.
May: Cut at least once a week in May but never lower than 1 inch for ryegrass lawns or ¾ inch for fine lawns. Control weeds with a selected weed killer (following manufacturers recommendations). Water during dry spells.
June: Cut lawn twice a week. During long dry spells, raise the height of the cut. Spot treat any stray weeds. Summer feed to replace lost nutrients in clippings. It is good idea to prick the surface before watering.
July: Carry on cutting the lawn at summer height twice a week. Try to get someone to cut the lawn while you are away on holiday.
August: Keep mowing as for July. August is the last effective month for weed control and high nitrogen summer feed.
September: Raise height of mower by ¼ inch and decrease the number of cuts. Scarify, spike and top dress the lawn, then overseed if necessary. Winter feed should be applied as the manufacturers recommendations. If any signs of fungus attack, fusarium, red thread, dollar spot, apply fungicide at the manufactures recommended rate.
October: Raise the mowing height by another ¼ inch and only mow when needed. Keep clearing leaves off the lawn. This is a good month to turf any new or damaged areas.
November: Give the lawn one final cut if the weather permits. Keep clearing leaves off the lawn. Put mower in for annual maintenance.
December: Brush leaves off lawn. Keep off the lawn if frosty or wet.
Screened Soil (when available)
Our Top soil is screened to approx. down to 20mm suitable for turfing etc.
Super Veg Mix Soil (when available)
Mixed with leaf mould, well rotted finely shredded farmyard manure compost and screened soil. Suitable for vegetable gardens and borders.
Vegetable Mix Soil
Mixed with well rotted finely shredded farmyard manure, compost and screened soil, ideal for growing your own grown produce and perfect for using in your borders.
Blended premium soil and compost, finely graded for ease of application, high organic content. Ideal for turfing covers more area than conventional top-soil.
Compost eco-friendly Soil improving compost, promotes vigorous growth, replaces lost humus, improves soil moisture retention, and contains valuable nutrients and trace elements, BSI PS100 Specification.
This product is ideal for protecting your borders from moisture loss and improves the soil.